Design for Use - Three: Dress

whole: the nine images occupy the majority, with the six upper images partially held within blue insets. The title is separate and positioned across the top edge, in black, held within a blue and white inset. The text is separate and placed at the centre and upper centre, in black. Further text is separate and located at the centre left, centre right and lower fifth, in black, held within blue insets. All set against a white background. image: the four central images each depict a couple dressed in the costume of various historical periods, including Norman, Medieval, Stuart and Victorian clothing. The lower image is of a modern shoe. The four outer images each depict a model dressed in various fashionable patterns or materials, such as printed satin, checks, rayon and fur. text: DESIGN for USE . 3: DRESS A BRIEF SURVEY of the line of costume through the ages shows that design, among fashionable people, was usually picturesque and practicability was rarely considered. In Norman and Medieval times the fashion for women was one of simple and draped lines, while for men, elaborate coats were worn above tights. The costume of women in the Tudor and Stuart periods aimed at restricting the figure with high neck- lines and waists made small by steel corseting. Men for the first time began to wear knee-breeches and wigs. By Georgian times the line of costume had become more exaggerated - waists were smaller to emphasise the immense width of crinoline hems. Hair was built high and powdered. Regency and Victorian days brought many changes: from flimsy Greek drapery to pseudo-oriental, from crinolines to bustles. Men began to wear tight-fitting, full-length trousers, cut-away coats and top-hats. From Edwardian times to the present day we go through the periods of sweeping hem-lines, eighteen inch waists and the 'hobble' skirt. The aftermath of World War I brought the 'tube' silhouette and shingled hair. Men began to wear ostentatious sports clothes - 'Oxford bags' and Fair Isle pullovers. Are the simple but well-planned lines of present day dress design suited to contemporary life? Will there be a complete change now from pre-war fashions in an endeavour to strike entirely new lines? Will the trend be towards the ridiculous? Or will it be a return to tasteful and attractive dressing after so long a period of uniform and 'utility' wear? Will there be severe and subdued lines of good cut for men? And for women will the aim be to emphasise gracefulness and feminity? Already as a reaction to the drab war years women do seem to be determined on being as feminine as possible. Pattern and material suited to the occasion: printed satin suggests formal evening wear. Pattern and material suited to the occasion: checks suggest sporting and country clothes. Pictorial Review No. 81 Crown Copyright Reserved Army Education, M.E.L.F. Rayon (chemically produced fabric) attractively designed as rainproof clothing. The modern shoe though simple in style has had much thought for comfortable fitting given to it. A smart and practical use of leopard and beaver furs for wear in cold climates. Printed by The Printing and Stationery Services, M.E.L.F.-9-46

Pictorial Review No. 81. Produced as part of a series of posters (see PST 16942 and PST 16956).